When you think of tonkatsu, you visualize a Styrofoam container filled with greasy breaded pork, two scoops of white rice and a slab of mayo-laden mac salad.
And you wouldn’t be incorrect.
But tonkatsu, that golden breaded pork dish we’ve come to love, can be so much more.
Case in point: Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin, a Japanese restaurant in Waikiki dedicated to perfecting this dish.

Outside the restaurant on Beach Walk in Waikiki.

Inside the eatery on a recent weeknight. Notice how crowded it is! I recommend making reservations.
The parent restaurant has been in business for more than 80 years, refining this plate lunch staple into something worth splurging on.
And yes, you’ll splurge. A regular plate can cost upwards of $20.
According to materials provided by the restaurant, Ginza Bairin was the first tonkatsu restaurant in Ginza, and the first to offer the now popular bite-size katsu (or hitokuchi katsu) and tonkatsu sandwich.
The restaurant uses the best pork — the choicest loin — coats it in fresh bread crumbs (panko) and deep-fries it in premium cotton seed oil. The tonkatsu is then paired with its signature katsu sauce, a blend of spices, fresh fruits and vegetables.
Part of the katsu-eating experience is the sesame seeds. The waitress brought us a bowl of toasted sesame seeds to accompany the sauce.

Here are the toasted sesame seeds.
You have to grind the seeds yourself, to whatever consistency you like. But you don’t just grind it with that piece of wood. You have to use the rough sides of the bowl to ground down the seeds.
This is then added to the katsu sauce for an added flavor.

Before the grinding.

After the grinding. Strangely, it smelled like peanut buttter.
So here’s what we ate:

The restaurant doesn’t just serve tonkatsu. Here’s the shrimp katsu-don, two jumbo tiger shrimp and an egg over rice.

The healthiest person in our party ordered the sauteed ginger pork loin ($18) — even asked for brown rice! — with veggies and a cabbage salad.

The pork is so tender, it just melts.

Here’s a closeup of the cabbage salad. I thoroughly enjoyed the sesame-miso dressing.

This is the restaurant’s special pork tenderloin katsu-don ($18), which looked like a loco moco with tonkatsu.

Another popular dish is the skewered pork tenderloin, chicken and vegetable katsu ($13), which are basically shish kabobs of meat, veggies and potatoes. Really good if you just want to sample everything.

I ordered the restaurant’s popular pork tenderloin katsu ($23), which comes with miso soup, salad, veggies, rice and tea.

These pork medallions are outrageously good, so tender and packed with flavor I could hardly believe it.

Look at the panko coating! Perfectly golden!

If you want the typical tonkatsu, opt for the thick-cut pork loin ($23), which is sliced just like in a plate lunch.

Here’s a peak inside the thick-cut tonkatsu.
Yes, it’s pricey. And yes, it’s in Waikiki. But let me tell you, you will never be satisfied with lunch wagon tonkatsu again!
Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin, 255 Beach Walk. Hours: Lunch, 11-2:30 Tuesdays-Fridays; dinner, 5-9:30 Tuesdays-Sundays; closed Mondays. Phone: 926-8082. www.pj-world.com/bairin.
***
Got a new job!
Just wanted you all to know that today is my first day at my new job.
Yes, NEW job. Again. But I can explain.
I’m now working at Kapi’olani Community College as a journalism instructor and adviser of the Kapi’o, the student newspaper.
It’s been a lifelong dream to teach — as most of my friends will attest — and this opportunity came up and I took it. I’ve been teaching for about eight years now, so this is a natural fit. And while I’ll miss the nonprofit world, this is much more in line with my interests and skill set.
So wish me luck on my new venture! Bring on the late nights of grading papers!